Showing posts with label free pattern. Show all posts
Showing posts with label free pattern. Show all posts

Tuesday, March 3, 2020

Heather Beanie (the Twisted Thistle)





Last year I wrote up a quick beanie pattern for a special fluffy yarn - the Thistle Beanie.

                              That pattern is up on the Yarnish Blog and you can find it here.

This Beanie pattern was a part of Made with a Twist's 'Top 10 One Hour Beanie Blog Burst'  and that post can be found here





Over Summer, I had one ball of the Softie yarn (pictured above), and I made a spiralized version of the thistle beanie - and I decided to name it 'Heather'. The original Thistle beanie evoked imagery of a Scottish thistle, and Heather is another iconic Scottish flowering plant - a perfect match! I've also worked up a few beanie's in the Hook Nook's 'Yummy' yarn - which gives it much more definition 



Get the ad-free PDF
For both the Heather and Thistle Beanie
and Etsy







Above - Heather and Thistle Beanies, in a different yarn. 



Heather is a fairly easy pattern to read, however, if you choose a fluffy yarn it can be a bit challenging. I recommend using a stitch marker to mark the first and last stitch of each row.

As usual - US terms are used, but we can easily translate the half double crochet to a half treble crochet in UK terms. 

Heather will fit most adult heads (58 cm circumference) and can be worn slouchy - or with the brim turned up. 

I also made a white version from my stash (unknown yarn) Same thickness, but much denser. I had to use a bigger hook to achieve the same drape - which is a good reminder when substituting yarns - to always check, whether that's to make a swatch, or evaluate after a few rows to see how it's going. It's also worth mentioning that yarn weights are based on a range - and it is more noticeable as the yarn increases in size.

If you need to make the beanie even faster - why not try Lion Brand's Wool Ease Thick and Quick and a 10 mm hook. 








Materials needed:

Abbreviations Used:

ch – chain
hdc – half double crochet
hdc2tog - crochet two hdc stitches together
sk – skip
st – stitch
BLO – Back Loop Only
( ) – indicate stitches worked in same stitch.

chains are not counted as a stitch throughout 










Begin:


Make a chain of 42

Row 1: sk 2ch, 40 hdc across, turn. 40 hdc
Row 2: ch2, BLOhdc2tog, 37 BLOhdc, (2 BLOhdc) in last st,  turn. 40 BLOhdc
Row 3: ch2, (2 BLOhdc) in 1st st, 37 BLOhdc,  BLOhdc2tog, turn. 40 BLOhdc

Repeat rows 2 and 3 for a total of 34 rows, or the desired width reached. 
Join row 34 to foundation row to make a tube (pictured below) with needle, or crochet together if preferred. Cinch one end closed. 


Weave in all ends.







Thanks for reading, and as always, Happy Crocheting

Emma 






Copyright © 2020 Emma Wilkinson Designs All Rights Reserved

No restrictions are placed on finished items made with this pattern, however, the pattern may not be resold or copied in any form. Pictures remain the property of Emma Wilkinson Designs





Thursday, January 2, 2020

Never Ending Story Shawl

Hello 2020!


Over the last few months I've been really into simple repetitive stitches, embracing the relaxing element of crochet. Zen crochet, you might want to call it. I've also been a bit obsessed with moss stitch - which is also known as linen stitch. Either name, it's a great stitch.




I've been making a one row repeat shawl - which means it can go on forever, or be as short as you like. It's a great travel or TV project and since it is worked entirely in single crochet and chains to make a moss or linen stitch, it is a perfect shawl for beginners.



I've called it the Never Ending Story Shawl - for obvious reasons!

The beginning chain creates a ripply little border.



This pattern will be released as a PDF - and I'll update this blog post when that is.


Materials I have used  


  • Yarn: Bendigo Woollen Mills ‘Stellar’ 8ply, 50% Bamboo 50% wool, 437 yards (400 meters) 200 grams x 2 balls in Amethyst.
    Hook: US H/ 5mm
    Notions: yarn needle
  • Hook: US H/ 5mm
  • Notions: yarn needle

I worked on the shawl while getting ready for my sister's wedding! 


Any favourite fibre can be substituted, with corresponding hook. Bendigo ‘Stellar’ makes for a lovely winter shawl, with the thick, dense fabric.

Gauge: 10 stitches and 18 rows = 10 cm (4 “) in moss stitch (sc and ch)

Finished measurements are not given, as it it to be worked until desired width. (a good 'desired width' is your fingertip to fingertip length)

Every row begins with a chain loop that will create the border, and ends with an increase. All stitches are worked into chain spaces; which makes it so easy to identify where to place the hook.
Note: the first chain 1 space is between the increases of the previous row.



Pattern:
Make a chain of 7
Row 1: Skip 6 ch, (sc, ch 1, sc) in last ch, turn. (2 sc)
Row 2: Ch 6, (sc, ch 1) in ch-1 sp, (sc, ch 1, sc) in ch-6 sp, turn. (3 sc)
Row 3: Ch 6, (sc, ch 1) in ch-1 sp, (sc, ch 1) in next ch-1 sp, (sc, ch 1, sc) in ch-6 sp, turn. (4 sc)
Row 4: Ch 6, (sc, ch 1) in each ch-1 sp across, (sc, ch, sc) in ch-6 sp, turn.

Repeat Row 4 until desired width reached.

Final Row: Ch 6, (sc, ch 1) in each ch-1 sp across, sc in ch-6 sp.


Fasten off and weave in ends. 

US terms used
ch - chain
sc - single crochet
sp - space

I hope you enjoy making it as much as I have! 

If you like this free pattern, please consider a donation to Kofi - or sharing your project on social media! 

Copyright © 2020 Emma Wilkinson Designs All Rights Reserved

No restrictions are placed on finished items made with this pattern, however the pattern may not be resold or copied in any form. Pictures remain the property of Emma Wilkinson Designs

Wednesday, October 2, 2019

The Fruit Cup Fade



The Fruit Cup Fade is one of my newest kits available at Yarnish.com.au. I've been posting about it everywhere except here! 




The pattern was posting in sections, a bit like a CAL, and each of the sections can be found on the Yarnish Blog. A single PDF document as since been created for those who'd like a copy of the pattern to keep for themselves, and thirdly a kit has been made! The blanket fades from one colour to the next, and is worked on the bias as a corner to corner moss stitch blanket. The blanket fits an Australian size single bed, but can be adjusted following standard corner to corner technique. 







The pattern uses Cicibebe yarn, which has a cool fair isle/speckled effect, which worked up like little flowers in small items, but a totally different look with this corner to corner moss stitch! I'm very keen to see some other variations, so please let me know if you do make one for your self, by tagging on Instagram with #fruitcupfade or adding a project on Ravelry.



Thanks for reading, 

Happy Crocheting

Emma

Thursday, August 15, 2019

Granny Square Day!

Today is Granny Square Day! It's an event that takes place on Instagram. The idea is to create a virtual blanket, by lots of people filling up their photo square with a granny square. When you view the hashtag, you should see a sea of granny squares! Over the last few days, I have begun posting my crazy daisy pattern, which you can find here. The full pattern is being slowly added to the post.




If you'd like to look at some other Granny Square Patterns of mine -








Happy Crocheting!

Emma

Tuesday, August 13, 2019

Granny Square Day 2019,



August 15th is Granny Square Day! And to celebrate - I'm releasing a brand new square pattern. I'll
admit, it's a bit of a crazy design. It's a nice big square, and I think that 4 together could be big enough for a pillow or cushion.
Edit: I've now entered an entry on the Ravelry database for this pattern - Dahlia Pinnata - please consider adding a project!



Please note - the asymmetrical border has not been included in the pattern.

I did block the circle before working on next section




Before we begin - gather your materials.

I am using a 4 mm crochet hook, and raided my stash for this project. The colours I used are:


  • yellow,
  • lime green
  • light pink,
  • dark pink,
  • grass green,
  • aqua,
  • silver green.


I mixed and matched yarn brands, but they are all cotton or cotton blends. Some brands I used are Scheepjes Catona, Ricorumi and Birch cotton. There are minor weight differences, but they have all worked for me.

US terms used. Fasten off each colour after each row.

Part 1: Round Medallion

With YELLOW make a magic ring.
Round 1: Ch 3, 11 dc into ring, secure and sl st to 3rd ch. (12 dc)
Round 2: LIME Standing sc into any st, *ch 2, sk 1 st, sc in next, rep from * around, ch 2, sl st to 1st st. (6 sc, 12 ch)
Round 3: AQUA Standing hdc in any ch-2 sp, ch 2, hdc in same sp, *ch 2, (hdc, ch 2, hdc) in next ch-2 sp, rep from * around, ch 2, sl st to 1st st. (12 hdc, 24 ch)
Round 4: LIGHT PINK Standing trcl in any ch-2 sp, *ch 3, trcl in next ch-2 sp, rep from * around, ch 3 and sl st to 1st st. (12 trcl, 36 ch)
Round 5: DARK PINK Standing trcl in any ch-3 sp, *ch 4, trcl in next ch-3 sp, rep from * around, ch 4 and sl st to 1st st. (12 trcl, 48 ch)


Part 2: Squaring off the circle

Round 6: LIME  (standing dc, 2 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc) in any ch-4 sp, *(ch 1, 4 hdc) in next ch sp, twice, (1 ch 3 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc) in next ch sp, rep from * around, sl st in 1st st. (32 hdc, 24 dc, 24 ch) 
Round 7: GRASS GREEN (standing dc, 2 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc) in any ch-3 sp, *dc in next 17 sts, (3 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc) in next ch-3 sp, rep from * around, sl st in 1st st. (92 dc, 12 ch) 

Part 3 - Leaf Detail

Row 8: Leaf - SILVER GREEN Join yarn to BLO of any corner chain with a sl st - and work following in the BLO of - sc, hdc, 3 dc, 2 hdc, 2 sc (9 sts) sl st into next st; turn your work 180 degrees, and work back into the FLO of the same stitches just worked - 2 sc, 2 hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc, sl st into corner sp, and continue in the FLO,  2 sc, 2 hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc, (9 sts) sl st in next st, Turn work 180 degrees and work tin the BLO of stitches just worked, sc, hdc, 3 dc, 2 hdc, 2 sc , and sl st back into corner. Fasten off green 

Row 9: WITH AQUA With the Leaf sitting at the top leaf hand corner, join yarn to the corner at the top right- (Ch 3, 2 dc) in corner sp, ch 1, sk next dc, 15 dc, (last dc will be in same st as leaf sl st) ch 12, dc in corner sp of Row 7, 12 ch, sk 9 sts, dc in same st as leaf sl st, 14 dc, ch 1, (3 dc) in corner sp. (37 dc)




ABBREVIATIONS USED:
Ch - Chain
Sc - single crochet
Dc - double crochet
Hdc - Half Double Crochet
Sk - Skip
Sl St - Slip Stitch
Sp - Space
trcl - treble cluster (4trtog)
YO - yarn over



Standing stitch: YO once more than usual (one YO for sc, two YO for dc), insert hook into st/sp, YO pull up loop, and continue stitch as usual.  

Treble Cluster: *YO twice, insert hook in sp, YO and pull up loop, YO and pull through two loops twice. (two loops remain on hook) Rep from * 3 times, all in same sp, YO and pull through 8 loops on hook

Standing Treble Cluster: YO three times, insert hook in sp, YO and pull up loop, YO and pull through two loops twice. (two loops remain on hook), *YO twice, insert hook in sp, YO and pull up loop, YO and pull through two loops twice. (two loops remain on hook) Rep from * 2 times, all in same sp, YO and pull through 8 loops on hook

Thank you for reading,

and Happy Crocheting!








Thursday, May 30, 2019

Share the Link - a few thoughts on free patterns.

Free patterns. Free patterns and their distribution.

I have free patterns, and I'd say most designers have at least one.

Sometimes they are released as a taster - get a feel for the designers writing style. Sometimes they are a designers first foray into writing and they don't feel like they are ready to charge. Sometimes it's just free for a limited time. Sometimes the designers are paid by another party (like a yarn company)  Or paid in another way - the advertising or 'click' revenue they receive. Maybe it's none of those reasons, but whatever it is, the designer or still owns the copyright and distribution rights to it. (if a third party has paid the designer for the pattern, the ownership may be transferred, but the following still applies.)

Ownership and distribution rights. What does that mean? It means you can't copy or redistribute the pattern anywhere, which includes digitally. Uploading the file to another location is the same thing as redistributing. You might think that you are doing the designer a favour, by getting their name out there, but you aren't. Exposure isn't a legitimate currency - it *can* be a nice added bonus, but it shouldn't be the motivating force.

So what can you do? Share the Link! Copy and paste the URL. (That's the web address - www. etc) If there is a share button on a blog post, that is fine too. You wouldn't copy and paste this whole blog post if you wanted to share it - too much work! You would copy the link and share that! Same goes for patterns, it's actually the least amount of work - and, at the end of the day - the legal way to share.

Yep, legal way. Designers aren't being precious, they just want to fairly stand up for their legal rights.

Share the Link!

Designers do want their patterns to be shared, and made, and enjoyed.

Do you like free patterns - you might enjoy these! Click the link to be taken to the blog post, and share the link with a friend! And for what it's worth - I'm not a lawyer :)

Wind rose Heart

Chunky Hexies

Blueberry washcloth

Denimberry Washcloth

Strawberry Fields Beanie 

Big Circle Granny

Thistle Beanie

Summer Vibes Wall Hanging 

Thank you for reading today! Do you have a favourite pattern? Share the link with me in the comments. 

Tuesday, May 28, 2019

Heart Wall Hanging 'Summer Vibes'- free crochet pattern

One day this past week, while I was sorting and cleaning my yarn stash, I found some chunky yarn left over from a beanie I made.




The yarn is Papatya Mouline Chunky in colour 5981 - which  self stripes!

The beanie I made was the thistle beanie - which you can find here



I had enough yarn to make a heart and tassel, and combine them to make a beachy wall hanging. I've called it Summer Vibes.

or continue for the free pattern


The heart measures 10 inches or 24.5 cm in height, with another 5 inches/ 12 cm for the tassel.

Chains are not counted as stitches -  US terms used. 8mm crochet hook.


Chain 4

Row 1: Sk 2 sts, hdc in next, 2 hdc in last ch, turn (3)
Row 2: Ch 2, 2 hdc in same st, hdc in next, 2 hdc in next, turn. (5)
Row 3 - 9: Ch 2, 2 hdc in same st, hdc in every st until one remains, 2 hdc in last st, turn. (17)
Row 10 - 11: Ch 2, hdc in same st, hdc in every st to end, turn (17)
Row 12: Ch 2, 2 hdc in same st, hdc in every st until one remains, 2 hdc in last st, turn. (19)
Row 13: Ch 2, hdc in same st, hdc in every st to end, turn. (19)
Row 14: Ch 2, 2 hdc in same st, hdc in every st until one remains, 2 hdc in last st, turn. (21)
Row 15 - 16: Ch 2, hdc in same st, hdc in every st to end, turn. (21)

Rows 17 - 21 can be worked in two ways - complete the whole right side before completing left side, or if you want to continue colour sequence of Mouline Chunky; work R(ight) Rows 17 and 18, L(eft) Rows 17 - 20, R Rows 19 - 21, L Row 21.

Right
Row 17: Ch 2, hdc2tog, 7 hdc, hdc2tog, turn (9)
Row 18: Ch2, hdc in same st, hdc in every st to end, turn (9)
Row 19: Ch 2, Ch 2, hdc2tog, 5 hdc, hdc2tog, turn (7)
Row 20: Ch 2, hdc in same st,  hdc in every st to end, turn. (7)
Row 21: Ch 2, hdc2tog, dc in next 4 sts, hdc in last st. (6)

Left
Join Yarn  to 11th st/centre. (last worked stitch from other half of Row 17)
Row 17: Ch 2, hdc2tog, 7 hdc, hdc2tog, turn (9)
Row 18: Ch2, hdc in same st, hdc in every st to end, turn (9)
Row 19: Ch 2, Ch 2, hdc2tog, 5 hdc, hdc2tog, turn (7)
Row 20: Ch 2, hdc in same st,  hdc in every st to end, turn. (7)
Row 21: Ch 2, hdc in same st, dc in next 4 sts, hdc2tog. (6)

Fasten off and weave in ends.


Tassel:

Follow these instructions, or use your preferred method - I used a 5 inch/12 cm piece of card.


Using a stick or dowl, attach to the top of the heart, and attach a final length of yarn to hang.


Abbreviations Used
ch - chain
hdc- half double crochet
dc - double crochet
sk - skip
st - stitch




If you are in a position to donate - please consider buying me a coffee. Your support allows me to produce free patterns.

Thursday, March 14, 2019

Easy Beanies for Tricky Yarn



Since we are entering the cold months (here in the Southern hemisphere) it's time to get some warm things made! I have two very easy beanies - that use 'tricky' yarns. They are only tricky as the can be intimidating! Fluffy yarns seem to be saved for knitting, but these two crochet patterns are a fun way to get some things made!






This time last year I published the Strawberry Fields Beanie - which used a fluffy mohair yarn. The yarn was a little challenging, but using moss stitch easily identifies where your hook should go. The easy repeats also mean it works up quicky



Over on the Yarnish Blog - where I am also blogging! I have just published a pattern for the Thistle Beanie. It has a similar construction, and similar challenges - the Softie yarn is also very fluffy, but makes an incredibly soft and comfortable beanie.



Both these beanie patterns are free, are worked flat and seamed, and can be made in a very short amount of time.

Each pattern is linked above - but if you'd like to add a project on Ravelry, or maybe just show some love by adding it to your favourites, the entries are here:

Thistle Beanie

Strawberry Fields Beanie 

I look forward to seeing your beanies!


Happy Crocheting

Emma

Thursday, February 21, 2019

Half Hexagon - in collaboration with Yarnish.




Back in December I was involved in an advent crochet a long that was hosted by Yarnish. The patterns remain on the Yarnish blog: 'What's on the blog' You can also find the Ravelry entry here, which includes projects added by users. The photo above shows the table runner in progress.

I have been since asked about a half hexagon and here it is!
The pattern is joined using the 'join as you go' method, and this takes place in row 4, in the open picots.

Yarn: Scheepjes Catona, 100% cotton, 10g/25m
Hook: 4 mm
Gauge: Motif width 10 cm, and half hexagon 5cm height
1 x 10g ball will yield 4 half hexagons or 2 full motifs.

Written is US terms and works in rows.


Abbreviations used:
ch – chain
sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet
dc2tog – double crochet two stitches together (see below)
dc3tog - double crochet three stitches together (see below)
BL/O – Back loop/ only
OP - open picot (see below)
sl st – slip stitch
st/s – stitch/es
sp – space
YO – yarn over (hook)


Special Stitches:
dc2tog – Starting cluster *YO, insert hook into st/sp, YO pull up loop, YO and draw through 2 loops, rep from *, 3 loops remain on hook, YO and draw through 3 remaining loops on hook.

dc3tog – Cluster. *YO, insert hook into st/sp, YO pull up loop, YO and draw through 2 loops, rep from * twice, 4 loops remain on hook, YO and draw through 4 remaining loops on hook.

open picot - (sc, ch 2, sc) into same st or sp, except when joining; work as (sc, ch 1, sl st to other motif, sc) See this blog post at Yarnish for more information on joining motifs. 

Pattern:
Start with a Magic Ring.

Round 1: Ch 2, dc2tog, (ch 2, dc3tog) 3 times, turn.(4 clusters).

Round 2:  Ch 3 (counts as dc), 5 dc next  sp, (ch 1, 5 dc in next sp) twice, dc in top of cluster, turn. (17 dc, 2 ch)

Round 3: Ch 3 (counts as dc) BLO dc in same st, BLO dc in next 4 sts, 2 BLO dc in next st, ch 1,     2 BLO dc in next dc, BLO dc in next 3 sts, 2 BLO dc in next dc, 2 BLO dc in next st, ch 1, 2 BLO dc in next dc, BLO dc in next 4 sts, 2 BLO dc in next dc turn. (23 BLO dc, 2 ch)

Round 4: Ch 1, OP in 1st st, *sc into next 3 dc, OP in next st, sc into next 3 dc, OP in next sp, rep from * twice more, with the final OP in the final st.

Fasten off. For best results I recommend blocking.