Candy Striped Basket - Free Pattern

 Time for a new - and free - pattern!

Introducing the Candy Striped Basket. 

This basket is worked into a wooden base bag, something I've been wanting to try for a while! I am using a 15 x 25 cm size - this pattern can be modified for larger (or smaller) but you will need to do some calculations for your yarn usage. This pattern works on a stitch count multiple of 5. 

It also uses front post double crochets, for a technique that is often referred to as a crochet brioche - or briochet! -as it mimics the brioche technique in knitting. 

The first 4 rows were tough to work into - so I recommend going slow and taking a few breaks. 

You'll also need a 4 mm hook, a stitch marker, scissors,

and 2 colours of Aran or 10ply cotton  

I have used Sheepjes Cahlista (50g/85 m) C1 280 Lemon (2 balls) and C2 519 Freesia (1 ball) 

This pattern is written in US terms

ch- chain
dc - double crochet
FP - front post
sk- skip
st - stitch
sl st - slip stitch
C1 - colour one
C2 - colour two

Join C1 to any hole, sc into every hole around. The side facing you will become the base.

Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc) and dc into same st, *dc in next st, 2dc in next st, rep from * to last st, dc in last st, slt st join.

Row 2: Ch 3 (does not count as dc) FPdc around starting chain from Row 1, and next dc, *ch 1, sk 1, 2 FPdc, rep from * around to last st, ch 1, sk 1, sl st to 1st FPdc. Secure C1 with a stitch marker, do not fasten off. 

Row 3:  With C2, make a standing FPdc around first skipped st from Row 1, *ch 2, sk 2 FPdc, FPdc into next skipped dc from Row 1, rep from * around, ch 2, sk 2 FPdc, sl st to standing FPdc. Secure C2 with a stitch marker, do not fasten off. 

Row 4: Ch 3 (does not count as dc) FPdc around 1st FPdc from Row 2, and next FPdc, *ch 1, sk 1, 2 FPdc, rep from * around to last st, ch 1, sk 1, sl st to 1st FPdc. secure C1 with a stitch marker, do not fasten off. 

Row 5: Ch 3 (does not count as dc) FPdc around 1st FPdc from Row 3, *ch 2, sk 2, FPdc, rep from * around to last st, ch 1, sk 1, sl st to 1st FPdc. secure C2 with a stitch marker, do not fasten off. 

Row 6 - 19: Alternate rows 4 and 5.

Row 20: Ch 3, FPdc around 1st st, and every st around.

Fasten off, and weave in ends.

I hope you enjoy your basket. As you can see from photos, I'll be using mine for yarn! 

Happy Crocheting,

Emma

Pattern designed and written by Emma Wilkinson©
No restrictions are placed on finished items made with this pattern, however the pattern may not be resold or copied in any form. Pictures remain the property of Emma Wilkinson Designs

Trillian Crochet Earrings

 

Trillian Earrings are inspired by the Trillium Gradiflorum - a three petalled flower- however my tiny earrings aren't limited to white blossoms - so I've gone with the 'Hitchhiker's Guide' character Trillian! 

I've used a 2.5 mm hook and a fingering weight yarn - Yarn and Colours 'Must Have' in Fuchsia, a mercerised cotton (they come in cute 10 g balls)  but I think they would look amazing with a thread and tiny hook! You'll also need a needle, scissors, 2 x earring hooks and optional 2 x jump rings and pliers. 

It's so easy - just two rounds - so you can make one for all your friends!

US terms are used

There are a couple of special stitches/techniques you'll need to use. 

magic ring - tutorial here.

starting cluster (st-cl) - ch 2, yo, insert hook in sp, yo, pull up loop, yo, pull through 2 lps on hook, [yo, insert hook in same sp, yo, pull up loop, yo, pull through 2 lps on hook] yo, pull through remaining loops on hook.

3 dc cluster (3dc-cl) Yo, insert hook in sp, yo, pull up loop, yo, pull through 2 lps on hook, [yo, insert hook in same sp, yo, pull up loop, yo, pull through 2 lps on hook]x2 , yo, pull up loop all 4 lps on hook

picot (pt) - ch 3, sl st through 1st chain.

other abbreviations

ch - chain

sc - single crochet

dc - double crochet

sl st - slip stitch

sp - space

yo - yarn over 

[ ] indicate section to be repeated.

Let's get started

Make a magic ring 

Round 1: St-cl (counts as 3dc-cl), [5 ch, 3dc-cl] twice, 5 ch, sl st to st-cl. (15ch, 3 3dc-cl)

Round 2: [3sc in next 5-ch sp, pt, 3sc in same ch sp] 3 times, sl st to 1st sc. (18sc, 3 pt)

Fasten off, weave in the middle end, but leave the end of round 2 for now. 

Now is the time to block, or even stiffen if you think it's needed.

Attaching earring hooks: I like to thread a jump ring onto the end before sewing it in tightly (pictured below) - if you don't have jump rings, you can attach the hook this same way. Make sure the end in sewn in tight. 

Then, using the pliers, open the ring wide enough to put the hook ring in, and then close

I hope you enjoy this super quick pattern!

Happy Crocheting,

Emma

Copyright © 2020 Emma Wilkinson Designs All Rights Reserved

No restrictions are placed on finished items made with this pattern, however the pattern may not be resold or copied in any form. Pictures remain the property of Emma Wilkinson Designs

 

Christmas Quick Makes - Blog Hop

This Blog Hop promotion has now ended, but I'll be keeping the links up to to Fosbas Design's original blog post. 

I'm joining in one more Blog Hop for the year - Quick Makes for Christmas

The Blog Hop is hosted by Fosbas Designs and you can find all the info you need in this blog post of hers.

Susanna; from Fosbas, loves to make cute items as gifts for loved ones, and created this blog hop to bring you 40 beautiful Christmas crochet patterns as daily PDF downloads. 

Today in the hop - it's my turn - St Niklaas Star 

It's a more intermediate pattern - but it's small! The first four rows have a chart included, as this is the big pressure point with colour changes! 

The post stitches also create a 'puffiness' which means you can make two and stitch together and not have to worry about looking for stuffing.

They are perfect for individual ornaments, or strung together as a garland. 

While you are here - i'd love for you to sign up for my monthly email - you can do that here. Oh yeah - did I mention there's another free pattern to thank you for joining the list! 

For more information on the Blog Hop - and to find the next patterns in the journey -  click below to be taken to Fosbas Designs Blog.

Thank you so much for hopping to my blog today, and happy holiday crafting!

Emma.

Good Old Granny Squares

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August 15th is Granny Square Day - and this year, I'm going back to basics. After trial and error, I now have my own preferred method - and I thought it would be good to write it down and share it with you today. 

Classic granny square, that can be used as an afghan block, component, extended into a large continuous blanket, or in any way you need a granny square!

Some fun ways to use the classic Granny Squares are to make Lovies - shown below is Kirra Lovey and Lambie and Llamie.

I have included an explanation why I do it the way I do. - but feel free to experiment and see what you like best. for example - I never turn my granny squares, but if it's something you like to try or something you already know you prefer, then please feel free to do so. Some people find it results in a straighter square.

Ok, lets get into it!

As usual, I use US terms. Photos use a 4.5 mm hook and dk weight yarn. This pattern works for any weight yarn, but make sure you use an appropriate hook. You can change colours after each round, or continue with the same yarn. Grab a paintbox 5 pack if you can't decide on colours 

I refer to '3dc' as a cluster in this tutorial.

So first step is to make a magic ring. You can follow this tutorial, or use your own preferred method. If you arent a fan of magic rings, a chain of 4, joined with a slip stitch will also work. The first row is all worked into the ring, then closed and secured at the end. 

R1: 3ch (counts as dc throughout) dc, ch 2, *3dc, ch 2, rep from *3 times; dc, sl st to 1^st st, sl st to 1^st ch-2 sp… (12 dc, 8ch)

• I like to put the 'first' dc at the end. Having the chain in the middle of the cluster hides it a bit better - it's less obvious that it's a chain. And it's as close to the corner as possible. 

• Why two slip stitches? I think it's a nicer join to sl st to the top of the first stitch (not the chain) and the second slip stitch means you are starting in the corner.

R2: (3ch, dc, ch 2, 3dc) in same ch-2 sp, *(ch, 3dc, 2ch, 3dc) in next ch-2 sp, rep from * 3 times; ch, dc in 1^st ch-2 sp,  sl st to 1^st st, sl st to 1^st ch-2 sp ….(24 dc, 12 ch)

R3: (3ch, dc, ch 2, 3dc) in same ch-2 sp, *(ch, 3dc) in next ch-1 sp, (ch, 3dc, 2ch, 3dc) in next ch-2 sp, rep from * 3 times, (ch, 3dc) in next ch-1 sp, ch, dc in 1^st ch-2 sp,  sl st to 1^st st, sl st to 1^st ch-2 sp… (36 tr, 16 ch)

• Having a chain space between the non-corner clusters is also a personal choice. I think for beginners it's a very good method - 2 chains is a corner, 1 chain is a regular space. 

• Strictly speaking - every round from now on will be the same as round three, but with the addition of an extra cluster on each side - 4 per round. 

• Every corner space (2 chains) will contain a corner cluster of ch, 3dc, 2ch, 3dc. Every ch-1 space will contain (ch, 3dc) 

Rows 4 and 5 will read like:

R4: (3ch, dc, ch 2, 3dc) in same ch-2 sp, *(ch, 3dc) in next ch-1 sp, twice, (ch, 3dc, 2ch, 3dc) in next ch-2 sp, rep from * 3 times, (ch, 3dc) in next ch-1 sp, twice, ch, dc in 1^st ch-2 sp,  sl st to 1^st st, sl st to 1^st ch-2 sp…(48 tr, 20 ch)

R5: (3ch, dc ch 2, 3dc) in same ch-2 sp, *(ch, 3dc) in next ch-1 sp, 3 times, (ch, 3dc, 2ch, 3dc) in next ch-2 sp, rep from * 3 times, (ch, 3dc) in next ch-1 sp, 3 times, ch, dc in 1^st ch-2 sp, sl st to 1^st st, sl st to 1^st ch-2 sp…(60 tr, 24 ch)

Continue your square as big as you like! Just follow the rule of the corner cluster in ch-2 sp, and every ch-1 sp contains a single cluster of stitches. 

I hope you enjoyed my pattern and explanation. 

If you would like to continue on to some Granny Square variations, here are some suggestions:

• Dahlia Pinnata 
• Big Circle Grannies
• Granny Heart

As usual: No restrictions are placed on finished items made with this pattern, however, the pattern may not be resold or copied in any form. Pictures remain the property of Emma Wilkinson Designs

Summer Vibes Blog Hop - Tropical Leaf Cushion

Today is my day for the Blog Hop!

Please note- Discount code has now Expired, but the post will stay up to link back to the Summer Vibes Blog Hop

For the next 24 hours - from the time this blog post goes live, you can grab the Tropical Leaf Cushion for Free! The ever-popular tropical monstera leaf will add a summery. Palm Spring Vibe to any home.

PATTERN IS AVAILABLE ON RAVELRY

Continue the Blog Hop by following our Host - Fosbas Designs

Thanks, and Enjoy, Emma. 

Wildflower Necklace - free pattern

I've got another free pattern for you today - The wildflower necklace.

This one started out as a kit - the pattern and all the yarn you needed to make a necklace.

It's a great pattern for beginners who have mastered the basic stitches, and want to start working in rounds. It's also great for advanced crocheters who want to make themselves something quickly.

ADD PROJECT TO RAVELRY 

I love having one of these to wear to crochet events - yarn shows, even networking events - where I want people to see I'm a crocheter, but it's too hot to wear a scarf or beanie.



They would also be great as a craft fair item.

It also works as a teething necklace! One mum can wear, and baby can grab.

Wildflower Necklace was originally available in 5 colours, which were named after Australian native plants and flowers from the Muogamarra nature reserve - hence Wildflower necklace. My favourite colourway is Eucalyptus. If you've been following me for a while, that won't be a surprise.

Yarn:
Scheepjes Catona, 100% cotton 25g / 62.5 m x 3 balls.



You can make your own colour combinations, but if you'd like to copy what was in the kits:

Ironbark – 106, 074, 501

Eucalyptus – 505, 506, 528 (pictured)

Native Orchids – 146, 208, 413

Waratah – 252, 264, 523

Muogamarra - 113, 385, 514




Hook: 3 mm

Notions: Yarn needle, fibre fill, stitch marker.

Gauge: 2.5 cm = 8 sts x 6 rows of sc

This pattern uses US terms and works in a continuous spiral. Use a stitch marker at the end of each row to keep track.



Abbreviations used:

sc   = single crochet

st/s = stitch/es

inv dec = invisible decrease; hook into front loop only of two stitches to be decreased, YO, draw through 2 loops on hook.

Bead (Make 3)

Make a magic ring

Round 1: 6 sc into loop, pull to secure. (6 sc)

Round 2: 2 sc into each st around. (12 sc)

Round 3: *2 sc into next st, sc into next; rep from * around. (18 sc)

Round 4: *2 sc into next st, sc into next 2 sts; rep from * around. (24 sc)

Round 5 - 8: sc around.

Round 9: *inv dec, sc into next 2 sts, rep from * around. (18 sc)

Begin adding fibre fill.

Round 10: *inv dec, sc into next st, rep from * around. (12 sc)

Round 11: *inv dec, rep around. (6 sc)

With yarn needle, cinch to close. Fasten off, Weave in ends.

Cut two lengths of cotton, in any colour, 90 cm long.
Using needle, thread the two lengths of cotton through centre of middle bead, starting at magic loop and ending at final cinch.



Thread other two beads on to cord, with magic loop on the outer edge of each side (the magic loop and increase side of the bead will be the neatest)
Secure with a knot on each side of beads
Make your necklace adjustable. Tie a knot at each end, around the cord. Trim as needed.



Thanks again for reading,

Happy Crocheting







Copyright © 2020 Emma Wilkinson Designs All Rights Reserved
No restrictions are placed on finished items made with this pattern, however the pattern may not be resold or copied in any form. Pictures remain the property of Emma Wilkinson Designs

Heather Beanie (the Twisted Thistle)

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Last year I wrote up a quick beanie pattern for a special fluffy yarn - the Thistle Beanie.

                              That pattern is up on the Yarnish Blog and you can find it here.

This Beanie pattern was a part of Made with a Twist's 'Top 10 One Hour Beanie Blog Burst'  and that post can be found here

Want to get the whole bundle in one click? You can purchase all 10 patterns via this link

Over Summer, I had one ball of the Softie yarn (pictured above), and I made a spiralized version of the thistle beanie - and I decided to name it 'Heather'. The original Thistle beanie evoked imagery of a Scottish thistle, and Heather is another iconic Scottish flowering plant - a perfect match! I've also worked up a few beanie's in the Hook Nook's 'Yummy' yarn - which gives it much more definition 

Get the ad-free PDF

For both the Heather and Thistle Beanie

on Ravelry

and Etsy

Above - Heather and Thistle Beanies, in a different yarn. 

Heather is a fairly easy pattern to read, however, if you choose a fluffy yarn it can be a bit challenging. I recommend using a stitch marker to mark the first and last stitch of each row.

As usual - US terms are used, but we can easily translate the half double crochet to a half treble crochet in UK terms. 

Heather will fit most adult heads (58 cm circumference) and can be worn slouchy - or with the brim turned up. 

I also made a white version from my stash (unknown yarn) Same thickness, but much denser. I had to use a bigger hook to achieve the same drape - which is a good reminder when substituting yarns - to always check, whether that's to make a swatch, or evaluate after a few rows to see how it's going. It's also worth mentioning that yarn weights are based on a range - and it is more noticeable as the yarn increases in size.

If you need to make the beanie even faster - why not try Lion Brand's Wool Ease Thick and Quick and a 10 mm hook. 

Materials needed:

• One Ball of Bulky (size 5) yarn (or a fluffy chunky!)
• 7 mm crochet hook (or suitable hook to match yarn) 
• 2 stitch markers
• scissors, yarn needle

Abbreviations Used:

ch – chain

hdc – half double crochet
hdc2tog - crochet two hdc stitches together
sk – skip

st – stitch

BLO – Back Loop Only

( ) – indicate stitches worked in same stitch.

chains are not counted as a stitch throughout 

Begin:

Make a chain of 42

Row 1: sk 2ch, 40 hdc across, turn. 40 hdc

Row 2: ch2, BLOhdc2tog, 37 BLOhdc, (2 BLOhdc) in last st,  turn. 40 BLOhdc

Row 3: ch2, (2 BLOhdc) in 1^st st, 37 BLOhdc,  BLOhdc2tog, turn. 40 BLOhdc

Repeat rows 2 and 3 for a total of 34 rows, or the desired width reached. 
Join row 34 to foundation row to make a tube (pictured below) with needle, or crochet together if preferred. Cinch one end closed. 

Weave in all ends.

Thanks for reading, and as always, Happy Crocheting

Emma 

Copyright © 2020 Emma Wilkinson Designs All Rights Reserved

No restrictions are placed on finished items made with this pattern, however, the pattern may not be resold or copied in any form. Pictures remain the property of Emma Wilkinson Designs

Never Ending Story Shawl

Hello 2020!

Over the last few months I've been really into simple repetitive stitches, embracing the relaxing element of crochet. Zen crochet, you might want to call it. I've also been a bit obsessed with moss stitch - which is also known as linen stitch. Either name, it's a great stitch.

I've been making a one row repeat shawl - which means it can go on forever, or be as short as you like. It's a great travel or TV project and since it is worked entirely in single crochet and chains to make a moss or linen stitch, it is a perfect shawl for beginners.

I've called it the Never Ending Story Shawl - for obvious reasons!

The beginning chain creates a ripply little border.

This pattern will be released as a PDF - and I'll update this blog post when that is.

Materials I have used  

• Yarn: Bendigo Woollen Mills ‘Stellar’ 8ply, 50% Bamboo 50% wool, 437 yards (400 meters) 200 grams x 2 balls in Amethyst.
  Hook: US H/ 5mm
  Notions: yarn needle
• Hook: US H/ 5mm
• Notions: yarn needle

I worked on the shawl while getting ready for my sister's wedding! 

Any favourite fibre can be substituted, with corresponding hook. Bendigo ‘Stellar’ makes for a lovely winter shawl, with the thick, dense fabric.

Gauge: 10 stitches and 18 rows = 10 cm (4 “) in moss stitch (sc and ch)

Finished measurements are not given, as it it to be worked until desired width. (a good 'desired width' is your fingertip to fingertip length)

Every row begins with a chain loop that will create the border, and ends with an increase. All stitches are worked into chain spaces; which makes it so easy to identify where to place the hook.

Note: the first chain 1 space is between the increases of the previous row.

Pattern:

Make a chain of 7

Row 1: Skip 6 ch, (sc, ch 1, sc) in last ch, turn. (2 sc)

Row 2: Ch 6, (sc, ch 1) in ch-1 sp, (sc, ch 1, sc) in ch-6 sp, turn. (3 sc)

Row 3: Ch 6, (sc, ch 1) in ch-1 sp, (sc, ch 1) in next ch-1 sp, (sc, ch 1, sc) in ch-6 sp, turn. (4 sc)
Row 4: Ch 6, (sc, ch 1) in each ch-1 sp across, (sc, ch, sc) in ch-6 sp, turn.

Repeat Row 4 until desired width reached.

Final Row: Ch 6, (sc, ch 1) in each ch-1 sp across, sc in ch-6 sp.

Fasten off and weave in ends. 

US terms used
ch - chain
sc - single crochet
sp - space

I hope you enjoy making it as much as I have! 

If you like this free pattern, please consider a donation to Kofi - or sharing your project on social media! 

Copyright © 2020 Emma Wilkinson Designs All Rights Reserved

No restrictions are placed on finished items made with this pattern, however the pattern may not be resold or copied in any form. Pictures remain the property of Emma Wilkinson Designs

The Fruit Cup Fade

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The Fruit Cup Fade is one of my newest kits available at Yarnish.com.au. I've been posting about it everywhere except here! 

You can read a wonderful blog post by Renee Ettia by clicking here.

The pattern was posting in sections, a bit like a CAL, and each of the sections can be found on the Yarnish Blog. A single PDF document as since been created for those who'd like a copy of the pattern to keep for themselves, and thirdly a kit has been made! The blanket fades from one colour to the next, and is worked on the bias as a corner to corner moss stitch blanket. The blanket fits an Australian size single bed, but can be adjusted following standard corner to corner technique. 

Link to Final Blog Post

Link to PDF

Link to Kit

The pattern uses Cicibebe yarn, which has a cool fair isle/speckled effect, which worked up like little flowers in small items, but a totally different look with this corner to corner moss stitch! I'm very keen to see some other variations, so please let me know if you do make one for your self, by tagging on Instagram with #fruitcupfade or adding a project on Ravelry.

Like free patterns - make a kofi donation to keep the blog running! 

Thanks for reading, 

Happy Crocheting

Emma