Celestial Square - Free Pattern.

A long, long time ago.....
*music starts*

A long time ago, I started a blanket, and even began joining it! Then I decided I wanted it to be just a big bigger, so the joins were undone and the squares packed into a box.

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A post shared by Emma Wilkinson Designs (@emma_crochets) on Jan 22, 2019 at 5:43pm PST

Eventually I got some more yarn, and decided to introduce a new subtle element to the blanket, and the Celestial square was born!

The original square was the Nebula square, and the Celestial square is her companion. I have almost 100 nebula squares, and will be making approximately 30 celestial squares to join into a blanket (it will be a square number!)

The yarn I am using plays a fairly integral part of the design- Papatya Batik #31. Which can be purchased in Australia at Yarnish.

I am not joining as I go (which is why I had to unpick) as they overall layout is colour based. I will have a complete post on the blanket once it is finished, an I have a deadline, so it won't be long!

This pattern is just for the new square, but I will write out a separate post explaining all the steps to make the blanket. The front post stitches create a 'dip' in the sides of the squares, but they flatten out once joined.

This pattern uses US terms and contains fpdc - front post double crochet, an explanation is given at the end.

Celestial Square - the pattern:

Yarn: Paptya Batik #31. 100% acrylic, 8 ply/dk, 360 m
Hook: 5 mm

Make a magic ring - or chain 5 and sl st join.

Round 1: Chain 3 (counts as dc) 2 dc, *3 ch, 3 dc, repeat from *twice more, sl st  into the top of the first dc. (12 dc, 12 ch)

Round 2: Chain 3 (does not count as a stitch) dc into same st (centre dc from round 1) fpdc around next dc; *(2 dc, 3 ch, 2 dc) in corner sp, fpdc into next dc, dc in next st, fpdc in next st, rep from * twice, (2 dc, 3 ch, 2 dc) in corner sp, fpdc around ch 3 from round 1, sl st into top of first dc. (20 dc, 8 fpdc, 12 ch)

Round 3:  Chain 3 (does not count as a stitch) dc into same st (centre dc from round 2) fpdc around next fpdc, 2 dc, *(2 dc, 3 ch, 2 dc) in corner sp, 2 dc, fpdc into next fpdc,  dc in next st, fpdc in next fpdc, 2 dc; rep from * twice, (2 dc, 3 ch, 2 dc) in corner sp, 2 dc, fpdc in next fpdc, sl st into top of first dc. (36 dc, 8 fpdc, 12 ch)

ch - chain
dc - double crochet
fpdc - front post double crochet:
st/s - stich/es
sp- space
yo - yarn over

front post double crochet: yo, insert hook front to back around crochet stitch post, yo and pull through, yo, pull through 2 sts, twice.

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Solid Granny Square

Back in 2013 I was experimenting with ways to create a solid block of colour.  This afghan block
works between stitches rather than the traditional method of top loops.

A fun way of breaking the rules and seeing what works! Somewhere along the line, the original post got lost, but I have been able to retrieve the pattern. 
A bit of an experimental block, that has worked! 


Excerpt from the original post:

'Simple solid square, written in US terms. What makes this pattern different is that instead of crocheting under the top loop, you crochet between each dc of previous row. I was able to get 18 squares from 1 x ball of 100 g 8 ply/dk weight yarn using a 4 mm hook.


Make a magic square.

Start with a magic ring.

1st round: 3 ch, 2 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc, and slip stitch into third chain from start, 
and slip stitch  between the 3 ch and first dc.

2nd round: 3 ch, *dc between each dc of previous row until you reach the corner, 
(2 dc, 2 ch, 2 dc) into cr-sp, repeat from * (you should have 6 dc on each side) 
sl st into third chain from start, slip stitch between the 3 ch and first dc.

3rd round: 3 ch, *dc between each dc of previous row until you reach the corner, 
(2 dc, 2 ch, 2 dc) into cr-sp, repeat from * 
(you should have 9 dc on each side) slip stitch into third chain from start, slip stitch between the 3 ch 
and first dc.

ch - chain

dc- double crochet

sl st - slip stitch

cr-sp - corner space

st dc.

s

 and then I'll show you how I'm joining them.

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New Year Resolutions

I really enjoy the time spent reflecting around the new year. I wasn't sure I was going to set any goals or resolutions this year, but it seems I just needed a little more time.

I have a professional goal; which for the time being, is going to be kept secret. I have a personal crochet goal that this year I will be more charitable. Making things to be donated, or donating yarn.

I have come across a program that is after 8 inch squares in cotton, for Australian farmers.
You can find the original post on instagram:

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A post shared by gumleaf_crochet (@gumleaf_crochet) on Jan 5, 2019 at 1:59pm PST

I happen to have a pattern to make 8 inch squares back from 2016. Big Circle Grannies. It needed a couple of tweaks, but perfect for this appeal. You can find the pattern here

Have you got any regular charities you crochet for, or do you like to be spontaneous?

Chunky Hexies - Join as you go - Free Pattern.

PIN FOR LATER

I have been playing with a large hexagon motif, that is 'joined as you go' (sometimes called Jaygo) This extra large hexagon measures 25 cm x 28 cm (10 x 11 inches)

Post has been been updated (Oct 2020) 

At the end of last year, in this post, I started making a hexagon motif with Bernat Big Ball Chunky in teal from American Yarns. In that post I thought I might keep going and make a huge hexagon, but I changed my mind and kept it at just 4 rounds. In the photo below you can see three motifs joined together, the join is incorporated in the 4th round.

IIf you'd like to make some hexagons of your own: 

Chunky Hexie- the Pattern. 

In US terms.

1 ball Big Ball Chunky in Teal (100% acrylic, 400 g, 394 m) 

12 mm Crochet Hook. 

Abbreviations (in US terms)

ch - chain

dc - double crochet

sl st - slip stitch 

st/s - stitch/es

sp - space

( ) - indicates stitches worked in same st/sp

[ ] or * * - indicates section to be repeated 

Single Motif.

Make a magic ring. 

 

Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc) dc, [ch 2, 2 dc] 5 times, ch 2, sl st to 3rd ch; sl st to next ch-2 sp. (12 dc, 12 ch)

Round 2: (Ch 3, dc, ch 2, 2 dc) into same ch-2 sp as sl st. [(2 dc, 2 ch, 2 dc) into next ch-2 space] 5 times, sl st to 3rd ch, sl st into next ch-2 sp. (24 dc, 12 ch)

Round 3: (Ch 3, dc, ch 2, 2 dc) into same ch-2 sp as sl st. [2 dc in next sp, (2 dc, 2 ch, 2 dc) into next ch-2 space] 5 times, sl st to 3rd ch, sl st into nect ch-2 sp. (36 dc, 12 ch)

Round 4:  (Ch 3, dc, ch 2, 2 dc) into same ch-2 sp as sl st. [2 dc in next sp, twice (2 dc, 2 ch, 2 dc) into next ch-2 space,] 5 times, sl st to 3rd ch, sl st into next ch-2 sp. (48 dc, 12 ch)

Jaygo.

All the joining will take place in Round 4. To start with, you will only need to join one side, but you will need to join more than one side eventually! 

You can join the motifs at any point around, I have chosen to do the join on the second side. You will need to make at least one single motif to join to! (you might make a pile of single motifs in one colour, and use a second to join)  

Jaygo Motif - 1 side.

Rounds 1- 3: As above

Round 4: (Ch 3, dc, ch 2, 2 dc) into same ch-2 sp as sl st. 2 dc in next sp, twice, (2 dc, 1 ch) into next ch- 2 sp; sc (marked as 1) into any ch-2 sp of single motif; 2 dc into same ch-2 space, 2 dc into next sp; sc (marked as 2) into sp between two dc groups of single motif,  **2 dc into next sp; (2 dc, 1 ch) into next ch- 2 sp; sc (marked as 3) into next ch-2 sp of single motif; 2 dc into same ch- 2 sp; (2 dc, 2 ch, 2 dc) into next ch-2 space, rep from ** 4 times, sl st to 3rd ch, sl st into next ch-2 sp. (48 dc, 12 ch)

Jaygo Motif - 2 sides

Rounds 1- 3: As above

Round 4: (Ch 3, dc, ch 2, 2 dc) into same ch-2 sp as sl st. 2 dc in next sp, twice, (2 dc, 1 ch) into next ch- 2 sp; sc into any ch-2 sp of single motif; 2 dc into same ch-2 space, *2 dc into next sp; sc into sp between two dc groups of single motif,  2 dc into next sp; (2 dc, 1 ch) into next ch- 2 sp; sc into next ch-2 sp of single motif; 2 dc into same ch- 2 sp; rep from * once,  **2 dc into next sp; (2 dc, 1 ch) into next ch- 2 sp; sc into next ch-2 sp of single motif; 2 dc into same ch- 2 sp; (2 dc, 2 ch, 2 dc) into next ch-2 space, rep from ** 3 times, sl st to 3rd ch, sl st into next ch-2 sp. (48 dc, 12 ch)

Continue in this fashion to join 3 or more sides. 

If you would like to make this pattern, please share a project on Ravelry, or tag me #EWDMakes on social media so I can see! 

This post contains no affiliate links, however I did receive the yarn as part of the linked review post. 

If you are in a position to donate - please consider a donation. Your support allows me to produce free patterns.

Until next time, Happy Crocheting 

Emma

Mustard Scarf - free Pattern

I made my sister a new winter scarf, and thought I would share the simple pattern with you. A great pattern for beginners.

I used 3 x balls of Abbey Road 'Wool to be Wild' in Mustard (Aran / 10 ply, 125 meters, 52% Wool - Merino 48% Manufactured Fibers - Acrylic) 
7 mm hook
Pattern written in US terms, with UK in brackets.

finished measurements; 24 cm x 140 cm (9.5 x 55 inches)

A post shared by Emma Wilkinson Designs (@emma_crochets) on Jun 5, 2018 at 7:43pm PDT

Make a chain of 35
Row 1: Miss 2 ch, 33 hdc (htr), turn.
Row 2: Ch 2, 33 hdc (htr) in BLO, turn.

Repeat Row 2 until desired length.
Fasten Off and weave in all ends. 

ch = chain
hdc = half double crochet
htr = (UK) half treble
BLO = back loops only

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Slouchy Strawberry Fields Beanie- Abbey Road Yarns

I was sent a few balls of the new Abbey Road Yarn from Spotlight, and have been having fun testing it out! The Strawberry Fields Mohair was a bit of a challenge (link here) as fluffy yarn can be hard to see stitches!The yarn is a blend of  50% Acrylic, 22% Mohair, 20% Merino and 8% Polyester, with a soft, brushed look. 

Nevertheless, I worked out the perfect stitch pattern - moss stitch, and with a 9 mm hook I was able to get a fabric that is super stretchy and perfect for a slouchy beanie.

The yarn is challenging, stitches are hard to see, but spaces aren't! Almost impossible to unravel, but it's also very forgiving. If you don't quite get the stitch in the right place, you are not likely to see. Although I just made a beanie, I think this stitch pattern would also make a lovely cushion cover or throw blanket for some gorgeous texture. 

You will need 1 ball of Abbey Road Strawberry Fields Mohair (50 g/ 90m) I used Orient Blue, and an 9 mm crochet hook. This beanie is worked flat in one piece and sewn at the end. a yarn needle is also required

Written in US terms
Make a Chain of 32.
Row 1: Miss 3 ch, *sc, ch, miss 1 chain. Repeat from * to finish with sc in final ch (14 SC)
Rows 2- 30.: 4 ch, * sc in 1-ch sp, ch. Repeat from * to finish with sc in 4-ch sp.

With yarn needle, join foundation chain to Row 30.

To sew top, fold in half and make one stitch joining the two sides. You will have a shape that looks like a figure 8. Pinch the top and bottom of the '8' in and make another stitch. Continue pinching in the 'loops' until you gathered in the top sufficiently. Weave all ends in.

Enjoy!

If you are in a position to donate - please consider buying me a coffee. Your support allows me to produce free patterns.

Competition Time! Win a Pattern.

I'm running a fun competition at the moment, which has been announced on Facebook and Instagram.

Recently I've been paying attention to my free patterns on Ravelry- how many downloads, which ones are popular and so on.

I have a handful of free patterns, some started out as blog posts, others were components, and some I just wanted to have as a taster to my style of writing.

So the competition is to make something from a free pattern, and upload the project to Ravelry, between now and the 10th March 2018. Simple!

You will go in the running to win any paid pattern (of mine) of your choice.

I would love to be tagged to be shown what you are making!

The winner be be decided by myself and announced on Facebook, Instagram and here on the blog. All results are final.

Any questions? Please don't hesitate to ask!

Finally the link >> Ravelry Patterns.

Any free pattern is eligible, like the three pictured.


Competition not affiliated with Instagram, Facebook or Ravelry.




Winner has been selected! Lee, who has been contacted with the prize.

Newsletter- sign up for FREE C2C tutorial.

Everything that is 'old' is new again, and by that it seems that the best way to stay up to date is via newsletter subscription.

Click here for form

As I'm still learning *HOW* to manage an email newsletter system, there are a few kinks.. I've just learnt how to send out a Welcome message! (You know I'd rather be crocheting and designing!) 

Included in the welcome message is a mini tutorial 'How to C2C'. This is going to come in very handy this year, as I have a few C2C patterns coming out!

If you would like to sign up AND learn how to C2C, then fill out the form below!

Subscribe to the mailing list

click this link: 

Please note that this is different to the Pattern Signup List, which are sent out as required. You can find the link to this list HERE

American Yarns - Review, with Free Pattern: "Blueberry WashCloth"

Welcome to the first in a three part blog series 

Link to Part 2

Link to Part 3

Free Pattern : Blueberry Washcloth using Lily Sugar and Cream

Keep reading for Pattern. 

I was sent some yarn from "American Yarns" to review, and have complied my thought on three types, and also included a bonus pattern for a wash cloth, made from one of the yarns sent. Still time before Christmas to make some handmade gifts!

American Yarns are based in Melbourne, Australia, and stock American and Canadian brands of yarn that are not readily available in the usual Australian Marketplace. They are familiar sounding names, ones you might see recommended by our American crochet and knitting friends online, like Red Heart, Bernat and Caron. They also stock hooks, needles, books and accessories, and provide Afterpay. I was sent the yarns to review and was not paid to do so, and the opinions remain my own. I have provided links to American Yarns and the products I sampled.

I trialled three different yarns, Red Heart Unforgettable, Lily Sugar and Cream, and Bernat Big Ball Chunky.

The first thing you notice about Red Heart Unforgettable is the iridescent sheen. It's really very beautiful. It's a worsted weight yarn, and recommends a 6 mm hook, but I did my swatch with a 5.5 mm. It's 100% acrylic, but has an unspun (roving) look about it. It is incredibly soft and quite silky. It is difficult to frog (undo), so I would recommend having a pattern in mind rather than experimenting! I did read somewhere that the thickness changes, due to the handspun look, but I did not notice this at all. The colours are variegated, in short colour sequences, but they blend very subtlety. It's quite unlike any yarn I have used before when you consider all combined elements.
I swatched up a small ripple, in 'Tealberry' and will continue to make a scarf! I will update with another blog post when that is done!

Next up, I tried Big Ball Chunky, in teal. I have used this yarn before and already have a positive view of it! I had previously bought online and had not found any Australian stockists, so very happy to now know of one. The most exciting thing, in my opinion, is the 400 g ball! It is a super bulky weight yarn with a plied look (spun) 100% acrylic, and although it recommends an 8 mm hook, I went up to a 12 mm! The down side is there aren't a huge range of colours, but the softee chunky- available in smaller 150 g balls do provide a few more choices. The colours that are available - grey, teal, black and white, suit my tastes, so I can't complain about that! I started with a simple granny hexagon, and plan to keep going until the ball is finished and have a throw for the bed or lounge room.

Finally I tried the Lily Sugar and Cream. A worsted weight 100% cotton yarn. It is plied and non mercerized. It's unusual to see yarn available in 71 grams! But that adds up to 2.5 ounces. It isn't the softest cotton I've tried, but I think that adds a certain amount of durability, perfect for washcloths and grocery bags. This cotton has a really easy centre pull and has a big range of colours, with ombre and striped options also available.

I made a swatch with the blueberry colour and a 5 mm hook. I kept going until I had made a wash cloth, and have the free pattern available for you.

Blueberry Washcloth

Using US terms. Turning chains not counted as a stitch.
With 'Blueberry' Sugar and Cream and 5 mm hook:
Ch 28.


Row 1: (skip 1st ch) 27 sc, Ch 1 Turn.
Row 2: 27 hdc. Ch 2 Turn.
Row 3: *1dc, 1sc. Repeat from *to end. Finishing row with dc. Ch 1. Turn
Row 4: *1sc, 1dc. Repeat from * to end. Finishing row with sc. Ch 1. Turn.

Repeat rows 1- 4, 6 times.
Repeat row 1 to finish.

Fasten off and weave in ends.
This will make a 20 x 20 cm square / 7.8 x 7.8 inch square.

Package up with a fancy soap, like the lime one pictured.


Thank you for reading my thoughts, don't forget, there is still time to give handmade, or out yarn on your Christmas list!

How to Crochet a Heart

Today's post is an update of an old one from my old blog. I like to update things to keep them fresh, or update old (or dark) pictures.




This is a pretty special post, as my old blog was named How to Crochet a Heart! As you can see, the love of crochet hearts has not faded, as I continue to use them!

You can find the original blog post HERE, which is also written as a photo tutorial, so if you need it to be simplified as much as possible, that's where to go!

Hook and yarn size isn't essential, but should match. This will work with a super chunky yarn and a 10mm hook, or crochet thread and a 1.5mm hook. Hmm. That gives me a few ideas!

I have used a 4mm, and a worsted or aran weight pink yarn, as pictured above, and a 5mm hook with 8ply /dk grey yarn, as pictured below. The grey yarn was also done with the second round in the back loops, as I sometimes like the emphasis of the centre heart shape.

Great for using up scraps!


Method (in US terms)

Round 1: Make a chain of 4, and crochet the following ALL into the first chain.
3 tr, 3 dc, 1ch, 1 tr, 1 ch, 3dc, 3tr.
3ch and sl st into chain also.
Round 2: 3ch, (sc, dc) into first stitch (3dc) into next (2dc) into next. dc once only into next three 3dc. dc into ch, 1ch, dcinto ch, (2dc) into next stitch, (3dc) into next, (dc, sc) into next. 3 ch and sl st back into original chain. You may need to secure or tighten original chain.
Fasten off.


Method (in UK terms)

Round 1: Make a chain of 4, and crochet the following ALL into the first chain.
3 dtr, 3 tr, 1ch, 1 dtr, 1 ch, 3tr, 3dtr.
3ch and sl st into chain also.
Round 2: 3ch, (dc, tr) into first stitch (3tr) into next (2tr) into next. tr once only into next three 3tr. tr into ch, 1ch, tr into ch, (2tr) into next stitch, (3tr) into next, (tr, dc) into next. 3 ch and sl st back into original chain. You may need to secure or tighten original chain.
Fasten off.

End of Round 1

Start of Second Round.

End of Second Round

thanks for coming to look! Please let me know if you have made a heart, either in the comments, or by tagging me on instagram (emma_crochets)

If you are in a position to donate - please consider buying me a coffee. Your support allows me to produce free patterns.

Wind Rose Heart - free pattern.

The Wind Rose Heart was part of the 26 Days of Love Blog Hop 

Missed a pattern? Grab the whole bundle here (affiliate link) 

The Wind Rose Heart - keep reading for the free pattern. 

Wind Rose is an old name for the compass points on a map, sometimes called a compass rose. The pattern uses spike stitches, and also back and front post stitches. The wind rose heart keeps anyone travelling afar, close to your heart. You could make a token or a tag from a heart, or a set of coasters or garland if your make many!

Great for stash busting. Only 10g or less of each of the colours is required.  This pattern was first written in 2017 for Valentine’s Day and has been since updated.Written in US terms.

The pattern is available as an ad free Premium PAID PDF to download on Ravelry, Etsy and LoveCrafts. This premium pattern also includes a chart. 

Materials:

 

Yarn: Cotton (100% Cotton/ 10 g) in C1, C2, C3 and C4 in a weight 2/ fingering weight yarn.

Hook: 3.5 or 4.0mm

Notions: yarn needle

Size: 13 cm (h)

Skill level: Intermediate

  

 

Pattern Notes:

Starting chains count as stitches throughout, but can be replaced with standing stitches if desired.  The main body of the heart is worked in rounds, and the arches are completed separately and worked in rows.

The corners of Round 4 work either side of the spike stitch. 

Stitch Instructions:

 

Spike Stitch – in this pattern, a spike stitch is a double crochet worked two rows below, in the centre of the magic ring.

Method: YO, insert hook into centre of magic ring, YO and pull up loop to same height as previous dc, YO, pull through 2 loops twice.

 

Abbreviations  US terminology:

Ch – chain

Sc – single crochet

Dc – double crochet

Tr-   treble crochet

FPhdc – Front post half double crochet

BPtr – Back post treble crochet

Crsp – corner space

Sp/s – space/es

St/s – stitch/es

SP st – Spike Stitch

Sl st – slip stitch.

YO – yarn over

Before we start, here are two photos to help with the tricky spots.

Row 4's corner works either side of the spike stitch of Row 3

Row 5 starts with a slip stitch in the chain space after the corner, then 8 trebles in the next space,then a slip stitch in the next space. To finish the row, sl st across to the corner. 

Begin

With C1, make a magic ring.

Round 1:  Ch 3, 2dc, *2 ch, 3 dc, repeat from * twice, 2 ch and sl st into 3rd chain.  (12 dc, 8 ch) Fasten off C1

Round 2: Join C2 into any corner space, ch 3, (2dc, 2ch, 3dc) into same corner space. *(ch 1, 3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) into next corner space; repeat from * twice, ch 1, sl st to 3^rd ch. (24 dc, 8 ch) Fasten off C2

Round 3: Join C3 into any crsp, 3ch, (2 dc, ch 1) in same cr-sp, SP st into centre (of magic ring), (ch 1, 3dc) into same cr-sp, *(ch 1, 3 dc) into next ch-1 sp, ** (ch 1, 3 dc, ch 1) in next crsp, SP into centre,  (ch 1, 3 dc) into same crsp; repeat from * 2 twice, ending at ** the second time; ch 1, sl st to 3^rd ch. (36 sts, 16 ch) Fasten off C3.

Row 3 Optional: Change the middle dc, of the centre cluster, to an additional SP st. 

Round 4: Join C4 in any ch-1 crsp on the right of SP st, (3ch, 2 dc, ch 3) in same crsp, (3 dc, ch 1) in next ch-1 crsp (left of SP St), (3 dc, ch 1) into next 2 ch sps, *(3 dc, ch 3) in next crsp (3 dc, ch 1) into next crsp, (3 dc, ch 1) into next 2 ch sps, repeat from * twice. (48 sts, 24 ch) Fasten off C4

 

Arches

Row 1: Rejoin C4 with a slst in the ch-1 sp to the left of any corner, 8 tr, in next ch-1 sp, sl st into next ch-1 sp, sl st across the top of the 3 dc, and sl st into cr-sp, turn. (8 tr)

Row 2: WS facing, (BPtr, ch) seven times, BPtr, sl st into next crsp, turn. (8 Bptr) Fasten off C4.

Repeat Arch into next side.

Edging

(RS facing) Join any colour (other than C4) in the corner space opposite the arches (base of heart), sc into corner space, sc into each stitch and ch around,

Fasten off and weave in ends

 

Block if desired.

Thanks for reading Happy Crocheting Emma.