Granny Square Day!

Today is Granny Square Day! It's an event that takes place on Instagram. The idea is to create a virtual blanket, by lots of people filling up their photo square with a granny square. When you view the hashtag, you should see a sea of granny squares! Over the last few days, I have begun posting my crazy daisy pattern, which you can find here. The full pattern is being slowly added to the post.

If you'd like to look at some other Granny Square Patterns of mine -

Granny Heart

Nebula Square

Big Granny Square

Happy Crocheting!

Emma

Granny Square Day 2019,

August 15th is Granny Square Day! And to celebrate - I'm releasing a brand new square pattern. I'll
admit, it's a bit of a crazy design. It's a nice big square, and I think that 4 together could be big enough for a pillow or cushion.
Edit: I've now entered an entry on the Ravelry database for this pattern - Dahlia Pinnata - please consider adding a project!

Please note - the asymmetrical border has not been included in the pattern.

I did block the circle before working on next section

Before we begin - gather your materials.

I am using a 4 mm crochet hook, and raided my stash for this project. The colours I used are:

• yellow,
• lime green
• light pink,
• dark pink,
• grass green,
• aqua,
• silver green.

I mixed and matched yarn brands, but they are all cotton or cotton blends. Some brands I used are Scheepjes Catona, Ricorumi and Birch cotton. There are minor weight differences, but they have all worked for me.

US terms used. Fasten off each colour after each row.

Part 1: Round Medallion

With YELLOW make a magic ring.
Round 1: Ch 3, 11 dc into ring, secure and sl st to 3rd ch. (12 dc)
Round 2: LIME Standing sc into any st, *ch 2, sk 1 st, sc in next, rep from * around, ch 2, sl st to 1st st. (6 sc, 12 ch)
Round 3: AQUA Standing hdc in any ch-2 sp, ch 2, hdc in same sp, *ch 2, (hdc, ch 2, hdc) in next ch-2 sp, rep from * around, ch 2, sl st to 1st st. (12 hdc, 24 ch)
Round 4: LIGHT PINK Standing trcl in any ch-2 sp, *ch 3, trcl in next ch-2 sp, rep from * around, ch 3 and sl st to 1st st. (12 trcl, 36 ch)
Round 5: DARK PINK Standing trcl in any ch-3 sp, *ch 4, trcl in next ch-3 sp, rep from * around, ch 4 and sl st to 1st st. (12 trcl, 48 ch)

Part 2: Squaring off the circle

Round 6: LIME  (standing dc, 2 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc) in any ch-4 sp, *(ch 1, 4 hdc) in next ch sp, twice, (1 ch 3 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc) in next ch sp, rep from * around, sl st in 1st st. (32 hdc, 24 dc, 24 ch) 
Round 7: GRASS GREEN (standing dc, 2 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc) in any ch-3 sp, *dc in next 17 sts, (3 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc) in next ch-3 sp, rep from * around, sl st in 1st st. (92 dc, 12 ch) 

Part 3 - Leaf Detail

Row 8: Leaf - SILVER GREEN Join yarn to BLO of any corner chain with a sl st - and work following in the BLO of - sc, hdc, 3 dc, 2 hdc, 2 sc (9 sts) sl st into next st; turn your work 180 degrees, and work back into the FLO of the same stitches just worked - 2 sc, 2 hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc, sl st into corner sp, and continue in the FLO,  2 sc, 2 hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc, (9 sts) sl st in next st, Turn work 180 degrees and work tin the BLO of stitches just worked, sc, hdc, 3 dc, 2 hdc, 2 sc , and sl st back into corner. Fasten off green 

Row 9: WITH AQUA With the Leaf sitting at the top leaf hand corner, join yarn to the corner at the top right- (Ch 3, 2 dc) in corner sp, ch 1, sk next dc, 15 dc, (last dc will be in same st as leaf sl st) ch 12, dc in corner sp of Row 7, 12 ch, sk 9 sts, dc in same st as leaf sl st, 14 dc, ch 1, (3 dc) in corner sp. (37 dc)

ABBREVIATIONS USED:
Ch - Chain
Sc - single crochet
Dc - double crochet
Hdc - Half Double Crochet
Sk - Skip
Sl St - Slip Stitch
Sp - Space
trcl - treble cluster (4trtog)
YO - yarn over



Standing stitch: YO once more than usual (one YO for sc, two YO for dc), insert hook into st/sp, YO pull up loop, and continue stitch as usual.  

Treble Cluster: *YO twice, insert hook in sp, YO and pull up loop, YO and pull through two loops twice. (two loops remain on hook) Rep from * 3 times, all in same sp, YO and pull through 8 loops on hook

Standing Treble Cluster: YO three times, insert hook in sp, YO and pull up loop, YO and pull through two loops twice. (two loops remain on hook), *YO twice, insert hook in sp, YO and pull up loop, YO and pull through two loops twice. (two loops remain on hook) Rep from * 2 times, all in same sp, YO and pull through 8 loops on hook

Thank you for reading,

and Happy Crocheting!

Share the Link - a few thoughts on free patterns.

Free patterns. Free patterns and their distribution.

I have free patterns, and I'd say most designers have at least one.

Sometimes they are released as a taster - get a feel for the designers writing style. Sometimes they are a designers first foray into writing and they don't feel like they are ready to charge. Sometimes it's just free for a limited time. Sometimes the designers are paid by another party (like a yarn company)  Or paid in another way - the advertising or 'click' revenue they receive. Maybe it's none of those reasons, but whatever it is, the designer or still owns the copyright and distribution rights to it. (if a third party has paid the designer for the pattern, the ownership may be transferred, but the following still applies.)

Ownership and distribution rights. What does that mean? It means you can't copy or redistribute the pattern anywhere, which includes digitally. Uploading the file to another location is the same thing as redistributing. You might think that you are doing the designer a favour, by getting their name out there, but you aren't. Exposure isn't a legitimate currency - it *can* be a nice added bonus, but it shouldn't be the motivating force.

So what can you do? Share the Link! Copy and paste the URL. (That's the web address - www. etc) If there is a share button on a blog post, that is fine too. You wouldn't copy and paste this whole blog post if you wanted to share it - too much work! You would copy the link and share that! Same goes for patterns, it's actually the least amount of work - and, at the end of the day - the legal way to share.

Yep, legal way. Designers aren't being precious, they just want to fairly stand up for their legal rights.

Share the Link!

Designers do want their patterns to be shared, and made, and enjoyed.

Do you like free patterns - you might enjoy these! Click the link to be taken to the blog post, and share the link with a friend! And for what it's worth - I'm not a lawyer :)

Wind rose Heart

Chunky Hexies

Blueberry washcloth

Denimberry Washcloth

Strawberry Fields Beanie 

Big Circle Granny

Thistle Beanie

Summer Vibes Wall Hanging 

Thank you for reading today! Do you have a favourite pattern? Share the link with me in the comments. 

Heart Wall Hanging 'Summer Vibes'- free crochet pattern

One day this past week, while I was sorting and cleaning my yarn stash, I found some chunky yarn left over from a beanie I made.

The yarn is Papatya Mouline Chunky in colour 5981 - which  self stripes!

The beanie I made was the thistle beanie - which you can find here

I had enough yarn to make a heart and tassel, and combine them to make a beachy wall hanging. I've called it Summer Vibes.

Click here to purchase the ad free PDF 

or continue for the free pattern

The heart measures 10 inches or 24.5 cm in height, with another 5 inches/ 12 cm for the tassel.

Chains are not counted as stitches -  US terms used. 8mm crochet hook.

Chain 4

Row 1: Sk 2 sts, hdc in next, 2 hdc in last ch, turn (3)
Row 2: Ch 2, 2 hdc in same st, hdc in next, 2 hdc in next, turn. (5)
Row 3 - 9: Ch 2, 2 hdc in same st, hdc in every st until one remains, 2 hdc in last st, turn. (17)
Row 10 - 11: Ch 2, hdc in same st, hdc in every st to end, turn (17)
Row 12: Ch 2, 2 hdc in same st, hdc in every st until one remains, 2 hdc in last st, turn. (19)
Row 13: Ch 2, hdc in same st, hdc in every st to end, turn. (19)
Row 14: Ch 2, 2 hdc in same st, hdc in every st until one remains, 2 hdc in last st, turn. (21)
Row 15 - 16: Ch 2, hdc in same st, hdc in every st to end, turn. (21)

Rows 17 - 21 can be worked in two ways - complete the whole right side before completing left side, or if you want to continue colour sequence of Mouline Chunky; work R(ight) Rows 17 and 18, L(eft) Rows 17 - 20, R Rows 19 - 21, L Row 21.

Right
Row 17: Ch 2, hdc2tog, 7 hdc, hdc2tog, turn (9)
Row 18: Ch2, hdc in same st, hdc in every st to end, turn (9)
Row 19: Ch 2, Ch 2, hdc2tog, 5 hdc, hdc2tog, turn (7)
Row 20: Ch 2, hdc in same st,  hdc in every st to end, turn. (7)
Row 21: Ch 2, hdc2tog, dc in next 4 sts, hdc in last st. (6)

Left
Join Yarn  to 11th st/centre. (last worked stitch from other half of Row 17)
Row 17: Ch 2, hdc2tog, 7 hdc, hdc2tog, turn (9)
Row 18: Ch2, hdc in same st, hdc in every st to end, turn (9)
Row 19: Ch 2, Ch 2, hdc2tog, 5 hdc, hdc2tog, turn (7)
Row 20: Ch 2, hdc in same st,  hdc in every st to end, turn. (7)
Row 21: Ch 2, hdc in same st, dc in next 4 sts, hdc2tog. (6)

Fasten off and weave in ends.


Tassel:

Follow these instructions, or use your preferred method - I used a 5 inch/12 cm piece of card.


Using a stick or dowl, attach to the top of the heart, and attach a final length of yarn to hang.


Abbreviations Used
ch - chain
hdc- half double crochet
dc - double crochet
sk - skip
st - stitch

If you are in a position to donate - please consider buying me a coffee. Your support allows me to produce free patterns.

Easy Beanies for Tricky Yarn

PIN FOR LATER

Since we are entering the cold months (here in the Southern hemisphere) it's time to get some warm things made! I have two very easy beanies - that use 'tricky' yarns. They are only tricky as the can be intimidating! Fluffy yarns seem to be saved for knitting, but these two crochet patterns are a fun way to get some things made!

This time last year I published the Strawberry Fields Beanie - which used a fluffy mohair yarn. The yarn was a little challenging, but using moss stitch easily identifies where your hook should go. The easy repeats also mean it works up quicky

Over on the Yarnish Blog - where I am also blogging! I have just published a pattern for the Thistle Beanie. It has a similar construction, and similar challenges - the Softie yarn is also very fluffy, but makes an incredibly soft and comfortable beanie.

Both these beanie patterns are free, are worked flat and seamed, and can be made in a very short amount of time.

Each pattern is linked above - but if you'd like to add a project on Ravelry, or maybe just show some love by adding it to your favourites, the entries are here:

Thistle Beanie

Strawberry Fields Beanie 

I look forward to seeing your beanies!


Happy Crocheting

Emma

Half Hexagon - in collaboration with Yarnish.

Back in December I was involved in an advent crochet a long that was hosted by Yarnish. The patterns remain on the Yarnish blog: 'What's on the blog' You can also find the Ravelry entry here, which includes projects added by users. The photo above shows the table runner in progress.

I have been since asked about a half hexagon and here it is!
The pattern is joined using the 'join as you go' method, and this takes place in row 4, in the open picots.

Yarn: Scheepjes Catona, 100% cotton, 10g/25m
Hook: 4 mm
Gauge: Motif width 10 cm, and half hexagon 5cm height
1 x 10g ball will yield 4 half hexagons or 2 full motifs.

Written is US terms and works in rows.

Abbreviations used:
ch – chain
sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet
dc2tog – double crochet two stitches together (see below)
dc3tog - double crochet three stitches together (see below)
BL/O – Back loop/ only
OP - open picot (see below)
sl st – slip stitch
st/s – stitch/es
sp – space
YO – yarn over (hook)

Special Stitches:
dc2tog – Starting cluster *YO, insert hook into st/sp, YO pull up loop, YO and draw through 2 loops, rep from *, 3 loops remain on hook, YO and draw through 3 remaining loops on hook.

dc3tog – Cluster. *YO, insert hook into st/sp, YO pull up loop, YO and draw through 2 loops, rep from * twice, 4 loops remain on hook, YO and draw through 4 remaining loops on hook.

open picot - (sc, ch 2, sc) into same st or sp, except when joining; work as (sc, ch 1, sl st to other motif, sc) See this blog post at Yarnish for more information on joining motifs. 

Pattern:
Start with a Magic Ring.

Round 1: Ch 2, dc2tog, (ch 2, dc3tog) 3 times, turn.(4 clusters).

Round 2:  Ch 3 (counts as dc), 5 dc next  sp, (ch 1, 5 dc in next sp) twice, dc in top of cluster, turn. (17 dc, 2 ch)

Round 3: Ch 3 (counts as dc) BLO dc in same st, BLO dc in next 4 sts, 2 BLO dc in next st, ch 1,     2 BLO dc in next dc, BLO dc in next 3 sts, 2 BLO dc in next dc, 2 BLO dc in next st, ch 1, 2 BLO dc in next dc, BLO dc in next 4 sts, 2 BLO dc in next dc turn. (23 BLO dc, 2 ch)

Round 4: Ch 1, OP in 1st st, *sc into next 3 dc, OP in next st, sc into next 3 dc, OP in next sp, rep from * twice more, with the final OP in the final st.

Fasten off. For best results I recommend blocking.

Celestial Square - Free Pattern.

A long, long time ago.....
*music starts*

A long time ago, I started a blanket, and even began joining it! Then I decided I wanted it to be just a big bigger, so the joins were undone and the squares packed into a box.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Emma Wilkinson Designs (@emma_crochets) on Jan 22, 2019 at 5:43pm PST

Eventually I got some more yarn, and decided to introduce a new subtle element to the blanket, and the Celestial square was born!

The original square was the Nebula square, and the Celestial square is her companion. I have almost 100 nebula squares, and will be making approximately 30 celestial squares to join into a blanket (it will be a square number!)

The yarn I am using plays a fairly integral part of the design- Papatya Batik #31. Which can be purchased in Australia at Yarnish.

I am not joining as I go (which is why I had to unpick) as they overall layout is colour based. I will have a complete post on the blanket once it is finished, an I have a deadline, so it won't be long!

This pattern is just for the new square, but I will write out a separate post explaining all the steps to make the blanket. The front post stitches create a 'dip' in the sides of the squares, but they flatten out once joined.

This pattern uses US terms and contains fpdc - front post double crochet, an explanation is given at the end.

Celestial Square - the pattern:

Yarn: Paptya Batik #31. 100% acrylic, 8 ply/dk, 360 m
Hook: 5 mm

Make a magic ring - or chain 5 and sl st join.

Round 1: Chain 3 (counts as dc) 2 dc, *3 ch, 3 dc, repeat from *twice more, sl st  into the top of the first dc. (12 dc, 12 ch)

Round 2: Chain 3 (does not count as a stitch) dc into same st (centre dc from round 1) fpdc around next dc; *(2 dc, 3 ch, 2 dc) in corner sp, fpdc into next dc, dc in next st, fpdc in next st, rep from * twice, (2 dc, 3 ch, 2 dc) in corner sp, fpdc around ch 3 from round 1, sl st into top of first dc. (20 dc, 8 fpdc, 12 ch)

Round 3:  Chain 3 (does not count as a stitch) dc into same st (centre dc from round 2) fpdc around next fpdc, 2 dc, *(2 dc, 3 ch, 2 dc) in corner sp, 2 dc, fpdc into next fpdc,  dc in next st, fpdc in next fpdc, 2 dc; rep from * twice, (2 dc, 3 ch, 2 dc) in corner sp, 2 dc, fpdc in next fpdc, sl st into top of first dc. (36 dc, 8 fpdc, 12 ch)

ch - chain
dc - double crochet
fpdc - front post double crochet:
st/s - stich/es
sp- space
yo - yarn over

front post double crochet: yo, insert hook front to back around crochet stitch post, yo and pull through, yo, pull through 2 sts, twice.

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Solid Granny Square

Back in 2013 I was experimenting with ways to create a solid block of colour.  This afghan block
works between stitches rather than the traditional method of top loops.

A fun way of breaking the rules and seeing what works! Somewhere along the line, the original post got lost, but I have been able to retrieve the pattern. 
A bit of an experimental block, that has worked! 


Excerpt from the original post:

'Simple solid square, written in US terms. What makes this pattern different is that instead of crocheting under the top loop, you crochet between each dc of previous row. I was able to get 18 squares from 1 x ball of 100 g 8 ply/dk weight yarn using a 4 mm hook.


Make a magic square.

Start with a magic ring.

1st round: 3 ch, 2 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc, and slip stitch into third chain from start, 
and slip stitch  between the 3 ch and first dc.

2nd round: 3 ch, *dc between each dc of previous row until you reach the corner, 
(2 dc, 2 ch, 2 dc) into cr-sp, repeat from * (you should have 6 dc on each side) 
sl st into third chain from start, slip stitch between the 3 ch and first dc.

3rd round: 3 ch, *dc between each dc of previous row until you reach the corner, 
(2 dc, 2 ch, 2 dc) into cr-sp, repeat from * 
(you should have 9 dc on each side) slip stitch into third chain from start, slip stitch between the 3 ch 
and first dc.

ch - chain

dc- double crochet

sl st - slip stitch

cr-sp - corner space

st dc.

s

 and then I'll show you how I'm joining them.

If you are in a position to donate - please consider buying me a coffee. Your support allows me to produce free patterns.

New Year Resolutions

I really enjoy the time spent reflecting around the new year. I wasn't sure I was going to set any goals or resolutions this year, but it seems I just needed a little more time.

I have a professional goal; which for the time being, is going to be kept secret. I have a personal crochet goal that this year I will be more charitable. Making things to be donated, or donating yarn.

I have come across a program that is after 8 inch squares in cotton, for Australian farmers.
You can find the original post on instagram:

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by gumleaf_crochet (@gumleaf_crochet) on Jan 5, 2019 at 1:59pm PST

I happen to have a pattern to make 8 inch squares back from 2016. Big Circle Grannies. It needed a couple of tweaks, but perfect for this appeal. You can find the pattern here

Have you got any regular charities you crochet for, or do you like to be spontaneous?

Chunky Hexies - Join as you go - Free Pattern.

PIN FOR LATER

I have been playing with a large hexagon motif, that is 'joined as you go' (sometimes called Jaygo) This extra large hexagon measures 25 cm x 28 cm (10 x 11 inches)

Post has been been updated (Oct 2020) 

At the end of last year, in this post, I started making a hexagon motif with Bernat Big Ball Chunky in teal from American Yarns. In that post I thought I might keep going and make a huge hexagon, but I changed my mind and kept it at just 4 rounds. In the photo below you can see three motifs joined together, the join is incorporated in the 4th round.

IIf you'd like to make some hexagons of your own: 

Chunky Hexie- the Pattern. 

In US terms.

1 ball Big Ball Chunky in Teal (100% acrylic, 400 g, 394 m) 

12 mm Crochet Hook. 

Abbreviations (in US terms)

ch - chain

dc - double crochet

sl st - slip stitch 

st/s - stitch/es

sp - space

( ) - indicates stitches worked in same st/sp

[ ] or * * - indicates section to be repeated 

Single Motif.

Make a magic ring. 

 

Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc) dc, [ch 2, 2 dc] 5 times, ch 2, sl st to 3rd ch; sl st to next ch-2 sp. (12 dc, 12 ch)

Round 2: (Ch 3, dc, ch 2, 2 dc) into same ch-2 sp as sl st. [(2 dc, 2 ch, 2 dc) into next ch-2 space] 5 times, sl st to 3rd ch, sl st into next ch-2 sp. (24 dc, 12 ch)

Round 3: (Ch 3, dc, ch 2, 2 dc) into same ch-2 sp as sl st. [2 dc in next sp, (2 dc, 2 ch, 2 dc) into next ch-2 space] 5 times, sl st to 3rd ch, sl st into nect ch-2 sp. (36 dc, 12 ch)

Round 4:  (Ch 3, dc, ch 2, 2 dc) into same ch-2 sp as sl st. [2 dc in next sp, twice (2 dc, 2 ch, 2 dc) into next ch-2 space,] 5 times, sl st to 3rd ch, sl st into next ch-2 sp. (48 dc, 12 ch)

Jaygo.

All the joining will take place in Round 4. To start with, you will only need to join one side, but you will need to join more than one side eventually! 

You can join the motifs at any point around, I have chosen to do the join on the second side. You will need to make at least one single motif to join to! (you might make a pile of single motifs in one colour, and use a second to join)  

Jaygo Motif - 1 side.

Rounds 1- 3: As above

Round 4: (Ch 3, dc, ch 2, 2 dc) into same ch-2 sp as sl st. 2 dc in next sp, twice, (2 dc, 1 ch) into next ch- 2 sp; sc (marked as 1) into any ch-2 sp of single motif; 2 dc into same ch-2 space, 2 dc into next sp; sc (marked as 2) into sp between two dc groups of single motif,  **2 dc into next sp; (2 dc, 1 ch) into next ch- 2 sp; sc (marked as 3) into next ch-2 sp of single motif; 2 dc into same ch- 2 sp; (2 dc, 2 ch, 2 dc) into next ch-2 space, rep from ** 4 times, sl st to 3rd ch, sl st into next ch-2 sp. (48 dc, 12 ch)

Jaygo Motif - 2 sides

Rounds 1- 3: As above

Round 4: (Ch 3, dc, ch 2, 2 dc) into same ch-2 sp as sl st. 2 dc in next sp, twice, (2 dc, 1 ch) into next ch- 2 sp; sc into any ch-2 sp of single motif; 2 dc into same ch-2 space, *2 dc into next sp; sc into sp between two dc groups of single motif,  2 dc into next sp; (2 dc, 1 ch) into next ch- 2 sp; sc into next ch-2 sp of single motif; 2 dc into same ch- 2 sp; rep from * once,  **2 dc into next sp; (2 dc, 1 ch) into next ch- 2 sp; sc into next ch-2 sp of single motif; 2 dc into same ch- 2 sp; (2 dc, 2 ch, 2 dc) into next ch-2 space, rep from ** 3 times, sl st to 3rd ch, sl st into next ch-2 sp. (48 dc, 12 ch)

Continue in this fashion to join 3 or more sides. 

If you would like to make this pattern, please share a project on Ravelry, or tag me #EWDMakes on social media so I can see! 

This post contains no affiliate links, however I did receive the yarn as part of the linked review post. 

If you are in a position to donate - please consider a donation. Your support allows me to produce free patterns.

Until next time, Happy Crocheting 

Emma

Mustard Scarf - free Pattern

I made my sister a new winter scarf, and thought I would share the simple pattern with you. A great pattern for beginners.

I used 3 x balls of Abbey Road 'Wool to be Wild' in Mustard (Aran / 10 ply, 125 meters, 52% Wool - Merino 48% Manufactured Fibers - Acrylic) 
7 mm hook
Pattern written in US terms, with UK in brackets.

finished measurements; 24 cm x 140 cm (9.5 x 55 inches)

A post shared by Emma Wilkinson Designs (@emma_crochets) on Jun 5, 2018 at 7:43pm PDT

Make a chain of 35
Row 1: Miss 2 ch, 33 hdc (htr), turn.
Row 2: Ch 2, 33 hdc (htr) in BLO, turn.

Repeat Row 2 until desired length.
Fasten Off and weave in all ends. 

ch = chain
hdc = half double crochet
htr = (UK) half treble
BLO = back loops only

If you are in a position to donate - please consider buying me a coffee. Your support allows me to produce free patterns.

Slouchy Strawberry Fields Beanie- Abbey Road Yarns

I was sent a few balls of the new Abbey Road Yarn from Spotlight, and have been having fun testing it out! The Strawberry Fields Mohair was a bit of a challenge (link here) as fluffy yarn can be hard to see stitches!The yarn is a blend of  50% Acrylic, 22% Mohair, 20% Merino and 8% Polyester, with a soft, brushed look. 

Nevertheless, I worked out the perfect stitch pattern - moss stitch, and with a 9 mm hook I was able to get a fabric that is super stretchy and perfect for a slouchy beanie.

The yarn is challenging, stitches are hard to see, but spaces aren't! Almost impossible to unravel, but it's also very forgiving. If you don't quite get the stitch in the right place, you are not likely to see. Although I just made a beanie, I think this stitch pattern would also make a lovely cushion cover or throw blanket for some gorgeous texture. 

You will need 1 ball of Abbey Road Strawberry Fields Mohair (50 g/ 90m) I used Orient Blue, and an 9 mm crochet hook. This beanie is worked flat in one piece and sewn at the end. a yarn needle is also required

Written in US terms
Make a Chain of 32.
Row 1: Miss 3 ch, *sc, ch, miss 1 chain. Repeat from * to finish with sc in final ch (14 SC)
Rows 2- 30.: 4 ch, * sc in 1-ch sp, ch. Repeat from * to finish with sc in 4-ch sp.

With yarn needle, join foundation chain to Row 30.

To sew top, fold in half and make one stitch joining the two sides. You will have a shape that looks like a figure 8. Pinch the top and bottom of the '8' in and make another stitch. Continue pinching in the 'loops' until you gathered in the top sufficiently. Weave all ends in.

Enjoy!

If you are in a position to donate - please consider buying me a coffee. Your support allows me to produce free patterns.